By Joshua Langston
Photos by Viranlly Liemena
Within the first few steps into the Eyebeam Studios for the ICB by Prabal Gurung show, there was a feeling of technological nostalgia. There were several groupings of square blocks in various lengths (think Tetris) spread through the venue and lights moving along the ground like the classic “snake” game. When the music chimed in and it sounded like the start up sounds to Super Mario, it confirmed this classic video game theme I had felt.
For his 8th collection with ICB as Creative Director, Prabal was “inspired by the idea of “Tech Tradition”, updating traditional shapes and fabrics for a modern, city girl”. One of these applications was the use of rubber printing, in small groupings of blown up houndstooth along the fronts of jackets, skirts and dresses, or along the leg of drop crotch trousers. The ICB girl this season has focused on “her forward thinking and fearless aspirational attitude”, which can be defined by the cool, relaxed fit and silhouettes. The menswear inspired suiting was very breezy and laid back, with a effortlessly cool vibe.
While the collection stayed predominately black, white, grey and pine with metallic and rubberized detailing, there was a section filled with “Iris Blue” [Navy] and “Ultramarine blue” [Electric Blue] that stood out. The Iris jackets had lame mixed houndstooth jacquard details that gave these “downtown cool” coats a piece of Park ave luxury. I loved height of the collar on the ultramarine wool high-neck sweatshirt, and the little zipper details on the sides.
The final few pieces had the same digitalized houndstooth we had seen embroidered or rubber printed previously, were now fabricated in hand embroidered plastic paillette’s. I can’t even begin to imagine how many hours of work that went into those appliqués, but the way the light hit them going down the runway, I’m sure made it all worthwhile.
After seeing this collection I assume Prabal is a bit of a gamer, or at least a fantastic Tetris player, because every single piece of this collection was a perfect fit.
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